黑色愉悦的受虐来源：游戏场中的反结构喜剧

doi:10.12054/lydk.bisu.72

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

位于美国的“烂人最后的港湾”餐厅,因其著名的粗鲁型服务吸引着大量游客体验受虐式就餐。一定程度上,餐厅从供餐设施异化为了可体验的景观。本文通过实证研究发现,该餐厅通过建构一个游戏氛围场、一个反结构的游戏过程,实现了互动性的喜剧表演,使体验者获得了阈限之内的黑色愉悦,该过程由主客间以及顾客内部的互动所主导,包括一系列构成要素及各阶段中特定工具的使用。本文亦分析了该游戏的结果及影响因素,回答了关涉其吸引力本质的问题,即受虐为何产生了愉悦,最后指出在特定场域中,反结构化的喜剧甚至受虐行为具有激发黑色愉悦的功能。

关键词: 黑色愉悦; 粗鲁服务; 餐厅吸引力; 游戏场; 反结构喜剧

Abstract:

This research takes the restaurant named Dick’s Last Resort in Boston, the US. as a case study and discusses the source of attractions of the restaurant known for rude services. The research applies qualitative methods, based on the data collected from field work and from social network reviews, using the software Maxqda as an analysis tool. As a result, this research finds out that this restaurant builds up a field atmosphere of game and conducts the interactive comedy performance in this field and realizes an anti-structure game process. This process includes the interaction between servers and customers, and also the interaction between customers. Furthermore, this research explores the key phrases within this game process, including: (1) informing; (2) demonstration; (3) guiding; and (4) interaction. It also finds out the application of body language and oral language during different phases. Based on this, this research analyses the results of the game conducted in the restaurant and points out the main influencing factors, including: (1) the degree of participation of audiences (the characters and acceptance of audiences); (2) the existence of moral border and personal border; (3) the sensitivity of the performers detecting the borders of the audiences; (4) the influence of cultural background of the audiences; and (5) the fulfillment of the basic functions of the restaurant. In the end, this article tries to answer the final question regarding to the attraction of this unique restaurant, namely: how does good-humored teasing give pleasure? The answer to this question is reflected in the following theoretical logic: (1) the construction and informing of the border of a “game filed”; (2) the authenticity contained in rudeness; (3) the intelligence contained in humor. In general, regarding this unique service style which contradicts the traditional and regular service style in restaurant management, this research discovers a possible explanation of the phenomena, illustrates its implementation approach in practice, pointes out its main successes and existing/potential problems, intending to provide references for theoretical exploration and restaurant practice.

Keywords: pleasure; rude service; restaurant attraction; game field; anti-structure comedy

中图分类号:

谢彦君, 孙佼佼. 黑色愉悦的受虐来源：游戏场中的反结构喜剧[J]. 旅游导刊, 2018, 2(5): 19-36.

Yanjun XIE, Jiaojiao SUN. How Does Insult Give Pleasure:The Anti-structure Comedy in the Game Field[J]. Tourism and Hospitality Prospects, 2018, 2(5): 19-36.

图/表 7

图1 餐厅官网页面

Fig.1 Official website of the restaurant

图2 餐厅入口

Fig.2 The entrance of the restaurant

图3 餐厅游戏场的时空模型

Fig.3 The Time-Space Model of the game field in the restaurant

图4 顾客的帽子和好奇的行人

Fig.4 Customers’ hats and curious passersby

表1 帽子道具上的戏谑语举例

Tab. 1 Examples of jokes on the tall hats

年龄阶段	小孩子	旁边家长	青少年	年轻男性	年轻女性	中老年人
帽子上的戏谑语	我亲邻居家的狗来练习接吻。	孩子免费。	失败的青春期过渡。	我不是男同性恋,我男朋友是。	Les Be Honest。（谐音女同性恋）	我哪有秃顶?

图5 用手指顾客的服务员

Fig.5 A waiter pointing at the customer

图6 喜剧餐厅体验结果的影响因素模型

Fig.6 The influencing factor model in the comedy restaurant

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