饮食文化生产中的原真性、食品安全与食品健康

doi:10.12054/lydk.bisu.74

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

饮食文化的跨地方再生产是饮食地理领域的重要议题。尽管已有研究从食品生产与消费二维情境的响应和匹配视角分析了饮食文化的异地生产,但这些研究仍是基于生产者视角的解读,忽视了食品本原价值,亦即食品的原真性和食品的安全与健康价值。本文基于饮食文化生产中的原真性、食品的安全与食品的健康等维度,构建了饮食文化再生产的三维分析框架,通过案例比较和文献分析,对流动性视角下的食品原真性与食品安全、地方性视角下的食品原真性与食品健康、现代性视角下的食品安全与食品健康之间的矛盾和冲突展开深入讨论。在此基础上,本文提出了未来的饮食文化生产研究方向,特别是食品生产与消费的统合、自然科学与社会科学对饮食文化生产研究的整合等,也为饮食文化的当代生产提供体系化的分析思路。

关键词: 饮食文化生产; 原真性; 食品安全; 食品健康

Abstract:

The trans-local cultural production of food is one of the most hotly debated research agendas and becomes emergingly significant in the area of food geography. Despite the long-term discussion on the paradox of authenticity versus standardization of food and the theoretical exploration on the food consumption context versus producers’ strategy, there is still a lack of interpretation from the views of food consumers, especially the fundamental value of food, namely food authenticity, food safety and food health. Given these shortcomings, this study proposed a three-dimensional framework including food authenticity, food safety and food health and based on this theoretical framework, this paper discussed different perceptions of the three elements from both food producers and consumers. This paper mainly discussed the negotiation process of food authenticity and food safety in the context of mobility and especially the tourism mobility; the second topic is the co-production of food authenticity and food health in the context of (re-)localization and particularly the destruction of global food network on local lifestyle and food perception; the third research agenda is the dis-continuum of food safety and food health in the process of modernization and the uniqueness of food value among different consumers. Furthermore, this research envisions the new directions on food research through both the view of food production and consumption and the integration of natural science and social science, which will promote the sustainable food culture production system in the near future.

Keywords: the production of food culture; authenticity; food safety; food health

中图分类号:

曾国军, 王龙杰. 饮食文化生产中的原真性、食品安全与食品健康[J]. 旅游导刊, 2018, 2(4): 15-16.

Guojun ZENG, Longjie WANG. Production of Food Culture: Authenticity, Food Safety and Food Health[J]. Tourism and Hospitality Prospects, 2018, 2(4): 15-16.

图/表 1

参考文献 57

[1]	Baritaux V, Houdart M, Boutonnet J, et al.Ecological embeddedness in animal food systems (re-)localisation: A comparative analysis of initiatives in France, Morocco and Senegal[J]. Journal of Rural Studies, 2016(43): 13~26.
[2]	Beer S.Authenticity and food experience:Commercial and academic perspectives[J]. Journal of Foodservice, 2008, 19(3): 153~163.
[3]	Chiffoleau Y.From Politics to co-operation: The dynamics of embeddedness in alternative food supply chains[J]. Sociologia Ruralis, 2009, 49(3): 218~235.
[4]	Cohen E, Avieli N.Food in tourism: Attraction and impediment[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2004, 31(4): 755~778.
[5]	Cook I, Crang P.The world on a plate: Culinary culture, displacement and geographical knowledges[J]. Journal of Material Culture, 1996, 1(2): 131~153.
[6]	Cox R.Turning to food: Geography, food production/consumption and the cultural turn[C]// Roseneil S, Frosh S. Social Research after the Cultural Turn. Berlin: Springer, 2012: 160~177.
[7]	D’Amico M, Di Vita G, Chinnici G, et al. Short food supply chain and locally produced wines: Factors affecting consumer behavior[J]. Italian Journal of Food Science, 2014, 26(3): 329~334.
[8]	Delind L B.Of bodies, place, and culture: Re-situating local food[J]. Journal of Agricultural and Environmental Ethics, 2006, 19(2): 121~146.
[9]	Delpeuch F, Maire B, Monnier E, et al.Globesity: A Planet Out of Control?[M] London: Routledge, 2009.
[10]	Eakin H, Connors J P, Wharton C, et al.Identifying attributes of food system sustainability: Emerging themes and consensus[J]. Agriculture and Human Values, 2017, 34(3): 757~773.
[11]	Farsund A A, Daugbjerg C, Langhelle O.Food security and trade: Reconciling discourses in the Food and Agriculture Organization and the World Trade Organization[J]. Food Security, 2015, 7(2): 383~391.
[12]	Feagan R.The place of food: Mapping out the ‘local’ in local food systems[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2007, 31(1): 23~42.
[13]	Germann Molz J.Eating difference: The cosmopolitan mobilities of culinary tourism[J]. Space and Culture, 2007, 10(1): 77~93.
[14]	Gibson S.Food mobilities: Traveling, dwelling, and eating cultures[J]. Space and Culture, 2007, 10(1): 4~21.
[15]	Goodman D.Ontology matters: The relational materiality of nature and agro-food studies[J]. Sociologia Ruralis, 2001, 41(2): 182~200.
[16]	Goodman D, Watts M.Globalising Food: Agrarian Questions and Global Restructuring[M]. London: Routledge, 1998: 514~516.
[17]	Hayes-Conroy A.Feeling slow food: Visceral fieldwork and empathetic research relations in the alternative food movement[J]. Geoforum, 2010, 41(5): 734~742.
[18]	Hayes-Conroy A, Hayes-Conroy J.Doing Nutrition Differently: Critical Approaches to Diet and Dietary Intervention[M]. Farnham, England: Routledge, 2013.
[19]	Jackson P.Changing Families, Changing Food[M]. London: Palgrave Macmillan, 2009.
[20]	Kim K S, Lee T J, Ryu K.Alternative healthy food choice for tourists: Developing Buddhist temple cuisine[J]. International Journal of Tourism Research, 2018, 20(3): 267~276.
[21]	MacLaurin T L. Food safety in travel and tourism[J]. Journal of Travel Research, 2001, 39(3): 332~333.
[22]	Mak A H N, Lumbers M, Eves A. Globalisation and food consumption in tourism[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2012, 39(1): 171~196.
[23]	Mather C, Mackenzie C.The body in transnational commodity cultures: South Africa’s Outspan ‘girls’ campaign[J]. Social & Cultural Geography, 2006, 7(3): 403~420.
[24]	Ong A S J, Frewer L, Chan M Y. Cognitive dissonance in food and nutrition:A review[J]. Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition, 2017, 57(11): 2330~2342.
[25]	Onozaka Y, Nurse G, McFadden D T. Local food consumers: How motivations and perceptions translate to buying behavior[J]. Choices, 2010, 25(1): 1~6.
[26]	Opara L U.Traceability in agriculture and food supply chain: A review of basic concepts, technological implications, and future prospects[J]. Food, Agriculture and Environment, 2003, 1(1): 101~106.
[27]	Ponte S.Governing through quality: Conventions and supply relations in the value chain for South African wine[J]. Sociologia Ruralis, 2009, 49(3): 236~257.
[28]	Ricketts Hein J, Ilbery B, Kneafsey M.Distribution of local food activity in England and Wales: An index of food relocalization[J]. Regional Studies, 2006, 40(3): 289~301.
[29]	Schupp J L.Cultivating better food access? The role of farmers’ markets in the U. S. local food movement[J]. Rural Sociology, 2017, 82(2): 318~348.
[30]	Sims R.Food, place and authenticity: Local food and the sustainable tourism experience[J]. Journal of Sustainable Tourism, 2009, 17(3): 321~336.
[31]	Telligman A L, Worosz M R, Bratcher C L.A qualitative study of Southern U. S. consumers’ top of the mind beliefs about the safety of local beef[J]. Appetite, 2017(109): 1~10.
[32]	Tikkanen I.Maslow’s hierarchy and food tourism in Finland: Five cases[J]. British Food Journal, 2007, 109(9): 721~734.
[33]	Van der Ploeg J D, Ye J Z, Schneider S. Rural development through the construction of new, nested, markets: Comparative perspectives from China, Brazil and the European Union[J]. Journal of Peasant Studies, 2012, 39(1): 133~173.
[34]	Van Rijswijk W, Frewer L J.Consumer perceptions of food quality and safety and their relation to traceability[J]. British Food Journal, 2008, 110(10): 1034~1046.
[35]	Wang N.Rethinking authenticity in tourism experience[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 1999, 26(2): 349~370.
[36]	Watts D C H, Ilbery B, Maye D. Making reconnections in agro-food geography: Alternative systems of food provision[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2005, 29(1): 22~40.
[37]	Wilks J, Oldenburg B.Tourist health: The silent factor in customer service[J]. Australian Journal of Hospitality Management, 1995, 2(2): 13~23.
[38]	Winter M.Embeddedness, the new food economy and defensive localism[J]. Journal of Rural Studies, 2003a, 19(1): 23~32.
[39]	Winter M.Geographies of food: Agro-food geographies making reconnections[J]. Progress in Human Geography, 2003b, 27(4): 505~513.
[40]	Ye S, Xiao H G, Zhou L Q.Commodification and perceived authenticity in commercial homes[J]. Annals of Tourism Research, 2018(71): 39~53.
[41]	Youn H, Kim J H.Is unfamiliarity a double-edged sword for ethnic restaurants?[J]. International Journal of Hospitality Management, 2018(68): 23~31.
[42]	林俊帆, 林耿. 意义、权力与再物质化: 食物消费地理新进展[J]. 人文地理, 2014, 29(6): 40~46.
[43]	钱俊希, 朱竑. 新文化地理学的理论统一性与话题多样性[J]. 地理研究, 2015, 34(3): 422~436.
[44]	许惠娇, 贺聪志, 叶敬忠. “去小农化”与“再小农化”?——重思食品安全问题[J]. 农业经济问题, 2017(8): 66~75, 111.
[45]	尹世久, 徐迎军, 徐玲玲, 等. 食品安全认证如何影响消费者偏好?——基于山东省821个样本的选择实验[J]. 中国农村经济, 2015(11): 40~53.
[46]	曾国军, 李凌, 刘博, 等. 跨地方饮食文化生产中的原真性重塑——西贝西北菜在广州的案例研究[J]. 地理学报, 2015, 69(12): 1871~1886.
[47]	曾国军, 刘梅. 饮食地理与跨地方饮食文化生产[J]. 旅游学刊, 2013, 28(3): 9~11.
[48]	曾国军, 刘梅, 刘博, 等. 跨地方饮食文化生产的过程研究──基于符号化的原真性视角[J]. 地理研究, 2013, 32(12): 2366~2376.
[49]	曾国军, 陆汝瑞. 原真性与标准化悖论: 饮食文化的消费情境与生产者响应[J]. 旅游导刊, 2017, 1(1): 51~66, 123.
[50]	曾国军, 孙树芝. 跨地方饮食品牌重塑的理论模型与实证分析[J]. 地理学报, 2016, 71(2): 338~351.
[51]	曾国军, 孙树芝, 朱竑, 等. 全球化与地方性冲突背后的跨地方饮食文化生产——基于广州的案例[J]. 地理科学, 2013, 33(3): 291~298.
[52]	曾国军, 张清宇, 周世平. 价值共创视角下的操作常规与动态能力——以广州和苑酒家的两家分店为例[J]. 管理案例研究与评论, 2018(1): 19~34.
[53]	张纯刚, 齐顾波. 突破差序心态重建食物信任——食品安全背景下的食物策略与食物心态[J]. 北京社会科学, 2015(1): 36~43.
[54]	张凌云. 旅游学研究的新框架: 对非惯常环境下消费者行为和现象的研究[J]. 旅游学刊, 2008, 23(10): 12~16.
[55]	张凌云. 非惯常环境: 旅游核心概念的再研究——建构旅游学研究框架的一种尝试[J]. 旅游学刊, 2009, 24(7): 12~17.
[56]	赵旭东, 王莎莎. 食物的信任——中国社会的饮食观念及其转变[J]. 江苏行政学院学报, 2013(2): 75~80.
[57]	周尚意, 张晶. 地方性对地理标识性产品垄断利润形成的影响——以苏州洞庭碧螺春为例[J]. 地理科学, 2015, 35(11): 1357~1363.